Core Standards of the Course
Strand 1
Students will increase knowledge and application of sewing machines, sergers, and pressing techniques.
Standard 1
Learn and apply sewing machine functions and adjustments.
Straight stitch: used for the majority of sewing
Stretch stitch: used for sewing on knits or other times when you need the stitching to be able to stretch
Blind hem: used to sew a blind hem, edge stitch or stitch in the ditch
Zigzag stitch: classic zigzag stitch
Buttonhole stitch: series of stitches used to create a buttonhole
Universal: general purpose stitching and fabrics
Stretch: stretch and knit fabrics
Sharp: silks and artificial leather
Jean: reinforced to handle extra thick woven fabrics without breakage or skipped stitches
Resources:
Standard 2
Learn to operate, thread, and maintain a serger.
Standard 3
Use pressing tools to create a professional product.
Tailor's ham: for pressing curved areas of clothing (darts, shoulders, collars, etc.)
Sleeve board: narrow board for sleeves
Seam roll: oblong for long, project like sleeves
Point presser: for narrow, hard-to-reach areas of collars, belts, cuffs, corners and points
Pressing cloth: prevents scorching/melting of fabric
*See Apparel Design and Prouduction II (pdf) for illustration
Performance Objective #1
Thread, operate and care for the serger.
Strand 2
Students will distinguish the different types of fabric and fiber characteristics.
Standard 1
Identify and review basic fibers (i.e., natural fibers include cotton, linen, silk, wool; manmade fibers include nylon, polyester, acrylic, rayon/lyocell, spandex, acetate).
Natural fiber characteristics: comes from plant and animals, moisture absorbent, more expensive
Cotton: absorbent, comfortable, durable, wrinkles, shrinks, easy to launder, plant source.
Linen: absorbent, natural luster, quick drying, wrinkles, frays, little stretch, plant source-flax
Silk: animal source-silk worm cocoon, absorbent, natural luster, insulating, strong, resilient, dyes well, expensive, degrades and yellows from age and sunlight.
Wool: animal source-fur, absorbent, strong, elastic, shrinks when laundered improperly, wrinkle resistant, warm
Manmade fiber characteristics: made from chemical compounds, heat sensitive/will melt, less absorbent to not at all absorbent, less expensive
Nylon: strong, elastic, water repellent, colorfast, frays easily
Polyester: good shape retention, easy to launder, wrinkle resistant, colorfast, blends well with other fibers, retains oily stains
Acrylic: resembles wool, soft, warm, nonabsorbent, pills, heat sensitive, can shrink or stretch
Rayon: soft and comfortable, drapes beautifully, blends well with other fibers, shrinks, poor shape retention, wrinkles, dyes well
Spandex: very elastic, adds stretch when blended with other fibers, requires stretch stitching techniques, shrinks
Acetate: high luster, drapes well, loses shape, wrinkles
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Standard 2
Identify various types of fabric construction.
Plain: yarns interlace at right angles, passing alternately over and under each other; strong, durable, easy to sew, wrinkles easily
Twill: one yarn passes over two or more yarns to create a diagonal pattern; soft, wrinkle resistant, hides soil.
Satin: yarns float over four or more yarns, then pass under one; shiny, smooth surface, snags easily
*See Apparel Design and Prouduction II (pdf) for illustration
Warp: Tricot, tulle, lace
Weft: Jersey, velour, fleece, interlock, rib, fake fur
*See Apparel Design and Prouduction II (pdf) for illustration
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Performance Objective #2
Perform a fiber identification lab. Use different ways of identifying fibers; for example, burn test, chemical test (acetone or bleach), or microscope observations.
Strand 3
Students will review and demonstrate pre-construction sewing techniques at the intermediate level.
Standard 1
Students will independently take measurements and choose appropriate fabric and make pattern alterations.
Wearing ease: amount added to a person's body measurements so one can move in a garment
Design ease: any amount of ease beyond the basic wearing ease that creates the style of a garment
Layering ease: amount of ease added to clothing that will be worn over other clothing
Negative ease: will measure smaller than actual body measurements, but will stretch to fit comfortably
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Make pattern alterations (demonstrate length and width adjustments and back waist). Use the lengthen and shorten line on the pattern piece to add needed or take away inches.
Width adjustment: amount needed to be added divided by the number of seams
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Performace Objective #3
Make fitting adjustments; demonstrate length and width pattern alterations.
Standard 2
Apply pattern preparation techniques.
Pleat: See Apparel Design and Prouduction II (pdf) for illustration
Dart: See Apparel Design and Prouduction II (pdf) for illustration
Finished garment measurements: measurements of the garment after it is completed
Center front and back: where the center of the garment front or back is located
Standard 3
Use appropriate marking techniques.
Strand 4
Students will use correct sewing construction techniques at the intermediate level.
Standard 1
Practice intermediate stitching techniques and thread selection for apparel design sewing projects.
Dart: The goal is to sew a dart with a point that is as smooth as possible. Stitch from the wide end to the tip, do not back stitch at the point.
Ease stitching: There are three ways to ease a seam: (1) gather before sewing the seam, (2) stretch the shorter seam as you sew the unequal layers together, or (3) let the machine ease the longer edge as the layers move under the presser foot.
Gather: Tiny, soft folds of fabric that form when a larger piece of fabric is sewn to smaller piece. The fabric should determine the best method of gathering to use. The goal is to create small, evenly spaced folds of fabric along the gathered area. There are four basic ways to gather: (1) rows of basting stitches, (2) machine couch a cord, (3) use a ruffler attachment or gathering foot, and (4) zigzag over clear elastic.
Pleat: All pleats involve folding fabric, and each folding strategy produces a different type of pleat (e.g., knife pleat, box pleat, inverted pleat).
Tuck: A stitched fold of fabric that is usually decorative, but can also be used to add shape to a garment; formed so that the fold and stitching show on the right side of the fabric.
Topstitching: A row of evenly spaced straight stitches visible on the right side of a garment; usually aligned parallel to an edge or a seam. Typical distance is 1/4" to 3/8"; however, it usually is a matter of taste.
Understitching: A technique when seam allowances are sewn to a fabric layer to help keep the fabric from rolling to the right side of the garment; invisible from the right side of the garment. Grade and clip seam allowances before understitching. Press seam allowances toward the facing.
Stitch in the ditch: Refers to machine stitching that is sewn in the "ditch" of a seam so that it sinks into the seam and stays out of sight.
Stay stitching: A row of permanent, straight stitches sewn on a single layer to prevent stretching in key areas when you're handling the garment during the construction process. The stitching should be done just inside the seam allowance (1/2" from the cut edge if seam allowances are 5/8"). No back stitch is necessary.
Hem: The finished edge on the bottom of a garment.
Quilting: a strong cotton thread with a waxy coating to prevent tangling when used in hand-quilting. It is not appropriate for use in sewing machine.
Heavy duty: Slightly heavier than all-purpose thread; to be used for prominent top-stitching.
Embroidery: Decorative thread offered in a wide variety of vibrant colors. Silky, lustrous, and versatile, it is weaker than regular sewing thread and should not be used for construction. It is used for decorative stitches.
Metallic: Add glitter and they are durable. All-purpose thread should be used on the bobbin; use metallic in upper looper on a serger.
Elastic: Used for stretch shirring; usually wound by hand onto the bobbin. The bobbin tension must be adjusted when using this type of thread.
Standard 2
Use appropriate techniques for enclosed seams (e.g, clipping, notching, layering/grading, trimming).
*See Apparel Design and Prouduction II (pdf) for illustration
Standard 3
Practice correct application techniques for applying interfacing and attaching facings or collars.
Standard 4
Identify each of the following and construct one or more: darts, pleats, and gathers.
*See Apparel Design and Prouduction II (pdf) for illustration
Standard 5
Identify uses and application of commercially prepared bias tape. Single or double fold, bias cut fabric strips have pre-folded edges that meet in the middle to bind raw fabric edges. They are prepackaged in several widths and come in a wide variety of colors, but you can make your own.
Single-fold tape has two folds. Each long edge is folded 1/4" to the center on the bias wrong side. Comes in varying widths.
Double-fold tape starts as a single fold strip, then it's folded in half again, either exactly down the center, or with one side slightly wider (to be placed on the underside when it's stitched, so the topstitching is sure to catch it). Comes in varying widths.
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Standard 6
Identify each of the following sleeves: raglan and set in (i.e., closed/round method and open/flat method).
Raglan sleeves (two-piece and one-piece) join the bodice in a diagonal seam that extends from the neckline to the side seam.
Set-in sleeves are joined to the garment bodice at a seam that circles over the shoulder and under the arm. A well-made set-in sleeve meets at the shoulder in a pucker-free, smooth, curved seam. Two methods of construction: closed/round method and open/flat method.*See Apparel Design and Prouduction II (pdf) for illustration
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Standard 7
Identify each of the following zipper applications, and construct one or more: centered, lapped, fly, exposed/sport, invisible.
Centered zippers are found on a variety of garments, including dresses, skirts and pants. Centered zippers align the seam over the zipper teeth and the zipper tape is covered by symmetrical overlaps on each side. Parallel lines of topstitching flank the seam.
Lapped zippers are sewn to completely hide the zipper under a flap of fabric, and are found in skirts, pants, and center backs of dresses.
Fly zippers are used in pants. Women's garments lap right over left, and men's garments lap left over right.
Exposed zippers are sewn directly on the outside of the garment. The zipper tape becomes a decorative feature. When installing an exposed zipper, turn the seam allowances to the right side, topstitch the zipper over the seam allowance to cover the fabric edge.
Invisible zippers, when inserted correctly, are unnoticeable except for the zipper pull. They are incredibly flexible and soft, making them ideal for fine fabrics.
*See Apparel Design and Prouduction II (pdf) for illustration
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Standard 8
Identify types and complete correct application of hems.
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Performance Objective #4
Complete all of the following skills as part of the course. A minimum of 9 skills need to be included as part of an apparel or accessory/personal item project.
Performance Objective #5
Use commercially prepared directions/guide sheets.